Universal Geneve Polerouter Reference 20357-1

Few watches can boast a résumé quite like the Universal Genève Polerouter. Born as an aviation instrument for SAS pilots tackling the pioneering polar routes, it was entrusted to a then 23-year-old Gérald Genta, who turned it into one of the most recognizable designs of the era. 

After decades of iterations, the formula remains irresistible: Perfect proportions, elegant lines and a wonderfully clever micro-rotor movement, born after the 138SS bumper.  

This particular example, without a date window, adds something no modern revival can manufacture: 60-plus years of honest character, wrapped around an exquisitely aged dial that started to tropicalize.  

The Polerouter is back, but can the new kid beat this much patina and personality? Highly doubtful. 

Please read the condition report carefully and refer to the high-resolution pictures to help you assess the overall condition of the watch. 

MODEL / REFERENCE: Universal Genève Polerouter, reference 20357-1. Likely produced during the late 1950s. Inventory Code: 60623-2. 

DIAL + HANDS: Originally black, the dial is adorned with an eye pleasing, uniform tropical hue and subtle flaking to its surface. The gilt printing remains well preserved, from the characteristic crosshair configuration to the outer minute track.  

The Radium lume dots have developed a lively, slightly darker patina, while the original dauphine hands have lost their luminous inlays over time. 

CRYSTAL: Unsigned Plexiglas crystal in good vintage condition, showing light superficial marks and light “crazing” consistent with age. There is a very small mark on the crystal’s edge; therefore, replacing the crystal will be the next caretaker’s decision.  

CASE: Stainless-steel case measuring approximately 34mm in diameter and 42mm lug-to-lug. Manufactured by the renowned case maker Huguenin Frères, it features the Polerouter’s distinctive lyre lugs, elegant bevels and balanced proportions. 

The case appears to have been previously polished, but retains a strong overall profile and well-defined bevels. Light scratches and signs of wear are present throughout, consistent with its age. There are some noticeable dents on the bottom right lug.  

CASE BACK: Stainless-steel screw-down case back showing honest signs of age and use. The surface shows visible scratches throughout, while the partially faded, original medallion remains quite prominent, adding an important and attractive detail to the back of the watch. The interior bears the correct factory markings, notably the “HF” stamp.  

CROWN: Unsigned crown, a generic replacement. It operates correctly for winding and setting the time. 

MOVEMENT: Powered by the celebrated in-house Universal Genève calibre 218-2, featuring the manufacture’s ingenious micro-rotor architecture. The movement is clean, has been inspected by our watchmaker, runs properly and keeps accurate time. 

STRAP: Green 18mm leather strap paired with a generic stainless-steel pin buckle. 

ACCESSORIES: Saffiano leather watch roll. 

WARRANTY: We guarantee the authenticity of the watch. We also provide a 12-month warranty covering the correct function of this timepiece. All guarantees are subject to our General Terms and Conditions. 

Please feel free to ask any questions; we will be glad to answer them. Personal or virtual viewing is available by appointment.